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    UPDATED: May 28, 2020                     CONTACT      
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 How do YOU feel about the 240?
If you actually read the TEXT in this ad to the left you'll realize the intercooler description is technically INCORRECT.  I guess ad writers and engineers didn't talk to each other much.  We still love the 240.
I've been a fan of these cars since way before I ever owned one. They were too expensive for me when they were new, so I had to buy one later.

If you have an affection for the 240, read Chris Driver's blog linked below.
I think you'll share a similar opinion.


And here's a good video: Why the Volvo 240 is Actually a Good Enthusiast Car + Walkthrough and Drive

Made by Sweden Chrome Emblem

240 Fuse Panel Page


26mm Slanted Moose Badge

Alternator Idler Pulley Project

LH EFI and Ignition Pin Function Diagrams

240 New Door Vinyl Kits


Prancing Moose 'S - A' Stabil ?lg

I'm a Volvo 240hobbyist.  I've been playing with Volvos (mostly240s) since 1988.  My pages here are an attemptto share my experiences with other Volvo hobbyists andto chronicle the knowledge and information I havegathered over the years so it may be passed on toothers.
I've owned 10 Volvos since1988.  So I thought I'd list some of thembelow....
<<< My second Volvo (butfirst 240). A white 1983 244 DL.  I bought it in 1990.  Non-sunroofcar, roll-up windows, auto trans, marginal AC, ok gasmileage.  It was exceptionally clean with only50k miles when I found it in Huntington Beach, CA.Cost me $5,000.  Already being an avid iPd customer,it soon got their anti-sway bars, sport springs andBilstein HD shocks, as well and a few other fungoodies.  I bought the back half of a 240 Turboexhaust and installed it from the cat-back. That was areally nice improvement.  It originally came with14 inch steels wheels with beauty rings andhubcaps.  I installed the 15 inch alloy wheelsfrom my '88 760.  I drove this car everywhere for6 years and put over 100,000 miles onit.  In 1996 I gave it to my daughter when shegot her drivers license.  Unfortunatelyitwas destroyeda few months later when some nit-wit pulled outdirectly in front of her in a Chevy Caprice. Shecouldn't avoid the Caprice and hit it broadside at 50plus mph. 
More info HERE (continued).

<<<Here's my current Volvo as itlooked when I bought it in 2003. I boughtthis black 1984 242Turbo from the 3rd owner, who bought it in 2002. Theoriginal paint and leather interior was in rare exceptional condition because the car was alwaysgaraged and still is. It's very important for anold car like this to live indoors if you want it tostay nice for this many years.  This car was arare find and it is a great car to drive

This 242 came with iPd TMEsport springs and iPd 25mmanti-sway bars when I bought it. I helped the previous ownerinstall those a few months before he sold the car to me.Otherwise nearly everything was original.

<<<This car wasall very original and stock when I got it. This is anunder-hood shot taken at the 2003 Annual Westside Volvo Showat Westside Volvo in Culver City, California.  I resisted the urgeto modify this car for a few years, but slowly thaturge began to win. So ithas undergone a few modifiedchanges since then. Just a few.

<<<This car originally came with the AW71 automatic transmission. I have always preferred manual transmissions in cars like this, but those are harder to find. Then a few years later the auto transmission failed more than 100 milesfrom home (during a road-trip to the annualDavis Volvo Show).  I called for a flatbed tow (having a premier AAA account was a great decision).  The car was sent back home and luckily a friend in another Volvo on his way to Davis was able to pick me up and give me a ride.  That transmission failure soured me on automatic transmissions, so I swore them off and replaced it withan M46 4-speed plusoverdrive transmission (photo at left). Years later I would upgrade to the T5Z transmission mentioned below.

The Eiker E1wheels (Polaris replicas) seen here and in some of the below photos wereimported from Finland in 2004. Back then the Eiker Wheel Company would notship to U.S. customers, so a Finnish friend arrangedfor a relative of his to purchase and ship then fromFinland.  It wasn't cheap, but I loved thesewheels and at that time this was the only way to get them and almost no one elsein the U.S. had them on their cars. Years later these wheels became more popular and became available inthe U.S. through a few importers. Theystarted appearing on other 240s at a fast rate. These are 17 x 7.5 inches (offset ET 20 mm)and mine fitted with 215/45-17 rubber. These are now available in 18 x 7.5 inches also.

Back in 2004 I used the generic 62 mm plastic center caps that came with these Eiker wheels and I glued on a round Volvo logo from a random Volvo cap.  I get questions all the time now from people with Eikers who have trouble finding an existing and available VOLVO cap that will fit. When you search, keep in mind that some discussions will pertain to original Polaris wheels, which seem to have a 57 mm center bore, and NOT the same size as an Eiker wheel, which reportedly has a 56 mm hole.  An original Polaris wheel used center cap Volvo PN 3529610 (no longer available). 

There's some info on-line that suggests VOLVO center cap PN 30638643 (pictured HERE) from a firstgeneration S40 (2001-2004) will supposedly fit an Eikerwheel.  This does NOT appear to be correct according to some people I know who bought and tried them. The 30638643 is made for a 55 mm hole and is rather loose in an Eiker wheel.

If anyone knows FOR CERTAIN of an existing AVAILABLE cap that actually fits well in an Eiker, please let me know and I'll add that here.
I have some measurements of a few different common VOLVO center caps here:

Here are some discussions thread that will add to your confusion:

If you're looking for these Eiker wheels, Kaplhenke Racingoffers them in 17 or 18 inch in their site: www.kaplhenke.com/collections/240/products/eiker-classic-e1

Later Idecided to install a FordMotorsportWorldClass T5Z 5-speed transmission.  It's pretty much identical to this one from Summit Racing, except when I bought mine it came from Ford Motorsport, not American Powertrain: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/awr-trfo-30001/This transmission was originally used for 1979 to 1993 Ford Mustangs with the 5.0 liter. The input shaft has 10 splines (1.0625" diameter). Output shaft has 28 splines. It has a 7 tooth speedometer drive gear. 
Gear ratios:

First Gear:
Second Gear:
Third Gear:
Fourth Gear:
Fifth Gear:
I later had 5th gear changed from 0.63:1 to 0.72:1 ratio, which is a much better ratio for a small Volvo engine. The 0.63 5th combined with my 3.91 rear end made for 5th gear highway driving at 2000 rpm at 60, 2500 rpm at 75 mph and 3000 rpm at 90 mph. With the change to 0.72:1 5th gear, 60 mph changed to 2300 rpm, 75 mph changed to 2850 rpm and 90 mph changed to 3450 rpm.

The T5 transmission can be installed with a one-piece or two-piece driveshaft.  For this installation I chose a two-piece.  It's the bottom one in this photo.  The top one is the stock 240 Turbo driveshaft.

Hurstperformance short-throw shifter.
My setupbegan with a cable style clutch, but I later changed that to a hydraulic clutch afterstretching and breaking a couple of clutch cables. Moreinfo about hydraulic clutch setups can be found in my Hydraulic Clutch Page.

<<< This Hurst shifter stick isdetailed below.

Alot of people have asked what I did for myshifter. 
<<< I began with this chromeHurst 8550 shifter stick.
The position was a little long for my comfort, so I cut off about an inch from the bottom.

The holes I'm using are shown in this photo: The BOTTOM hole (which was the existing tophole before) and thethird hole from the bottom in this photo,which I drilled out.The other holes were experimental and I didn'tused them.

The final shifter position is now perfect in myopinion. It's comfortable and and easy to reach anygear.

That's a rubber bushing from Hurst. PN 1140015. About$11. 

It adapts the flat shifter stick nicely to the roundhole of the original 240 rubber shift boot.

And then some nice new taillights in 2007.  That kept mecontent for a little while.  I've been askedwhere these taillights came from.  They startedas ALL CLEAR taillights I found on eBay.  Then Ibought sometransparent red spray paint from the modelsection in a hobby store.
More info on paintingyour taillamps can be for HERE.

Thatrearspoiler is a very rare Volvo 240 accessory made byZender in the 1980's.

EventuallyI grew tired of the traditional humped  "coffin"hood, so in 2010 this car received a flat hood and matchingflat grill.

The engine is still the originalB21FT, but a few added features have crept in, such asSDS EFI programmable fuel injection and programmableignition. I installed a Mitsubishi TD04HL 15G turbo (originallyfrom an 850R Turbo), which is mounted on a later(1990+) exhaust manifold. A turbo like this is more responsive on a small engine with low compression like this B21FT, which has only 7.5:1 CR. The original Garrett T3 turbo was much slower to respond.

Adapting a Mitsubishi turbo is not difficult and there's a good basic tutorial here: https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=83929

I decided to go old-school on the front grill andlights just for fun.
InNovember 2010 I took the 242 on a road trip to theannual Arizona VolvoDay in Tucson, Arizona.  It was awardedfirst place in the rear wheel drive class.  Ihave photo albums from a large number of Volvo meets going back many years in my Volvo Meet Photo Albumpage.

  <<<I added these GT style driving lights in 2011. No, those are NOT standard 242 GT lights. Those are 100watt Dick Cepek driving lights. They're larger than 242 GT fog lights, so I carefully enlargedthe fog light buckets from a GT grill and fittedthe larger off-road lamps. They light up the night like the sun! That's a useful bonus on long, dark roads.   

<<< Thesephotoswere taken during a trip down the Northern Californiacoast in May 2011 after attending the annual iPd Garage Sale and RSIPicnic.  The first pic was on thefamous coastal Mattole Road south of Ferndale. The last two pics are in Humbolt Redwoods State Parkwith the giant redwoods. Fun trip!

<<< In2012 I decided it was time for some different wheels. The Eikers were on the car for 8 years. They are verynice wheels, but when I first installed them, therewere almost no other Volvos with them in the U.S.  After a fewyears, a lot of 240s had them, so I wanted a change tosomething I wouldn't see on so many other 240s atevery Volvo meet I attended. I have always loved thelook of BBS mesh style wheels. These wheels areNOT genuine BBS, but they look nice. I found them on eBay. The size is 17x 7.5, same as the Eikers, but these have a BMW bolt pattern(5 x 120 mm, with 72.56 mm hub center) and 35 mm offset. So I had somehub-centric billet adapters custom made by http://www.motorsport-tech.com. Moreon adapters below.

The tires shown here are 235/40-17Goodyear Eagle F1.  If youfit a tire this wide on the rear of a lowered 240, you WILL absolutely betrimming or pounding some of the inner rear fendermetal to make more room.  The back halfof the rear arch will rub on a wide tire on bumps. Ifthe car is lowered, it'll rub even more onbumps.  I have created an article in my 240 Mods Page on howI made clearance for these tires on my 240: https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#rearwheelclearance

In 2019 I changed to 225/45-17, since I could no longer find the previous size in a tire I liked. The new tires are Dunlop SP Sport 01, a more aggressive tire with a stickier rubber compound. They had great reviews and I have always been very happy with Dunlop performance tires in past years.

The reason I decided on wheelswith a BMW boltpattern with adapters is because there areMANY more wheel styles to choose from for a BMW thanfor a Volvo 240. So shopping for something I liked waseasier.  These wheels are 7.5 inch wide with 35mm offset.  Ichose 20mm thick adapters in front and 40mm thick inback. Adding the extra 20 mm in the backhelps push the wheels out more toward the outerfender. These specs worked nicely for me with the rearinner fender sheet metal work I did. 

Mostcustom adapter makers will tell you their minimumrecommended adapter thickness is somewhere between 20and 30 mm. Motorsport-tech.comtold me their minimum thickness is usually 19-20 mm.The wheels you choose will need the right offset tocompensate for your adapter thickness.  Also keepin mind that a wider front wheel/tire may also getcloser to the front strut tube on the inside and youroffset calculations should be compensated for thatwheel/tire clearance too.  I put some info together on calculating wheel offset for a Volvo 240: https://www.240turbo.com/volvo240mods.html#wheeloffset

Here's a front 20 mm adapter/spacer bolted in place.

Good question.  I used the original Volvo spare for a while, but then I began thinking that if I actually had to put on my spare, I would have to remove the adapter first.  So I decided to look for a spare wheel with a BMW bolt pattern. I wanted a wheel larger than 15 inches in case it came in handy for a larger brake upgrade and the tire needed to be fairly close to the same diameter as the tires on my car.  And the spare tire would need to be narrow enough to fit inside the spare tire well, plus I wanted a NORMAL tire, not a space-saver temporary spare.

It wasn't easy finding a wheel I liked, since so many BMW wheels are much wider than I wanted (usually 8 to 10 inches).  I would have preferred a 17 inch wheel and it can be found in a 6.5 inch width, but then I found that no one seems to make a narrow enough 17 inch tire that fits such a wheel unless you want a very tall tire (unless you buy a super-narrow space-saver temp tire).   I wanted something inexpensive too . . . a lot of wants, huh? 

I saw some USED space-saver spare wheels on eBay. Those all seemed to have a 3.5 or 4 inch width.  Too narrow.  Again, I wanted to use a normal tire, not a space-saver.  Plus have you seen how damned expensive used space-saver tires are on eBay???
I finally found this new wheel on eBay. It was only $60.  It's a steel wheel, 16 x 6.5 inches with an ET of 45. Listed as part number BMW9153. 
Then I found the below Federal tire in size 175/60-16. It was CHEAP.  Perfection so far.

In 2017 I completed aHUGE conversion of the AC with a complete new systemfrom Classic AutoAir. 

 Sounds prettydrastic.  It was, but it's working so much better thanthe old AC ever did before.

If you're curious about the hood vents, they're from a 1980s  Ford Sierra RS 500 Cosworthand they function very well getting hot air out of theengine bay.


In 2018 I completed a build project to make a DASH TOP GAUGE POD similar to the
rare one Volvo offered for this car. 
This project has it's own page and ca
n be found here: https://www.240turbo.com/dashgaugepod.html



<<<Here's an under hood shot (from2018). 

I've been using SDS EFI to controlfuel and spark for many years.  Before convertingthis car to EFI, I used SDS EFI inmy 245 Turbo for many years beginning in 1990.  I get occasional grief from Megasquirt userswho think SDSdeserves no respect. Maybe Megasquirtis better, maybe it isn't.  While Megasquirt doesoffer a number of peripheral options that SDS doesn't offer,
I've never had an SDSrelated issue or failure in both 240s I used it inover the past 20 years. I know aLOT of Megasquirtusers who can't attest to such reliability.

Keep in mind that SDShas been a very well respected and proven system for AIRCRAFT enginesfor many years: http://www.sdsefi.com/aircraft.htmlAretheremany pilots out there who trust Megasquirt enoughto fly around with it?

I'm not a Megasquirthater. Not even close. I've just never used it yet. I may even try itout someday in my car if I get sufficiently motivated.

There'salot going on under my hood, but it's pretty reliableand keeps my car going as it needs to. That's a big custom Griffinaluminum radiator with a Lincoln Mark VIII fan. I have more info on this installation and past fan projects here: 240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html

- P  A  S  T     V  O  L  V O  S  -

245ti-1997-002.jpgHumble 245 beginnings.....  This was my first240 Turbo.  Ibought this 1984245 Turbo back in March of 1997.  Ipaid $3200 to who I think was the second owner inRialto, California.  It was completely stockand original.  When I started to do a fewlittle modifications, I really had no idea thedirection it would eventually take.  This wasmy first 240 Turbo, so I found myself in a strangenew world when it came to understand things like K-Jetronic fuelinjection.  I had no clue what madeit tick, but I was learning. 



欧美14一18处免费245-083004-003-med.jpg I wantedto modify. It was not fast enough.  Butthis car was my daily driver, so as many ofyou know, there are limits to the kinds ofmods you cando to a car that needs to get you to work inthe morning.  For those of you who wereinto modifying Volvos in the 90?s, you'llremember there were not many sources forperformance parts.  I was no stranger tohot-rodding, having previously owned a ?66Chevelle (my first car)

 Thena friend talked me into buying this 1967 BMW 1600ti Alpina. It was a former GermanGroup 3 racer (see photo>>>)...It was complete with box fender flares (pig cheeks), racingsuspension, roll-cage and 2 liter racing motor with dual Weber 45 DCOEcarbs. 160 BHP in a car that weighed 2100 lbs. This car was a handful. It had a 4.37:1 rear gear ratio with a 4 speed and handled like it was on rails. More about early Alpinas here: https://www.bmw2002.co.uk/history-of-the-02/alpina-02s/

By 1997 when I bought the 245 Turbo, I had already been acustomer of iPdfor a number of years. They were the best (often theonly) source around for Volvo performanceimprovement parts.  So mods startedgetting done slowly as I could manage.